Cruise 2022/23 collections: how this season’s offerings reflect the way we consume and think about fashion today

For luxury fashion’s biggest brands, Cruise collections have become a complete offering ─ right down to sunglasses and sandals, which break away from fall’s chunky knits and seams, reaching for breeziness and lightness. . In case you didn’t already know, the Cruise Collections, also known as the Resort or Holiday Collections, fall at the end of the Fall Collections (November) and bridge the months until the Spring collections are coming out (February). It encompasses the major global holidays of the year, which means Cruise always includes the bright, the sexy, and the small.

Historically, Cruise collections were created with the jet-setter in mind and catered to very affluent customers who needed a wardrobe for their mid-winter trips ─ to escape harsh winters, they flew (or sailed in ships) to mild climates in exotic regions. Locations. In these hot seaside resorts, they abandoned their heavy winter wardrobe for lighter clothes, for games and evenings.

Institutionalized into the fashion calendar in the 2000s, fashion brands had evolved Cruise from the practical need of the few to a full fledged fashion season for mass consumption. Major luxury brands have seized the opportunity to fill the slower fashion months with a collection full of a-seasonal clothing and accessories to appeal to the eye and the handbag.

With the why out of the way, let’s now take some fashion insight by studying this year’s cruise deals. Reviewing the collections, it becomes immediately clear that the designers are evenly divided into two camps: on the one hand, the bold visionaries consider the realities of the world, and then express it in vivid fashion statements that range from thinking from uncomfortable, to dystopian – an example of this is Balenciaga.

On the other hand, we have designers who present beautiful, elegant and classic clothes that meet immediate needs. Valentino, for example, creates beautiful collections season after season.

Gucci is from the bold old school. Cruising in this Italian luxury house reminds us why our fashion era will be marked by its arduous and improbable patchwork of all previous fashion eras. We don’t have a style of our own – our style is the unironic and piety pastiche of all past styles. This state of fashion reflects how much the past weighs on our conscience – and on our deadlines. The internet archives the history that isn’t history: the 1820s and 1920s are still here in the 2020s and it’s just a reality of how we consume fashion now. The past is always with us.

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