Emilio Pucci Spring 2022 Ready-to-Wear Collection


Sex, seduction and skin are proving to be the key themes of spring 2022 in Milan, but rather than going back to Pucci’s vampy era of the 2010s, the brand offers a less obvious sensuality. Pastel prim sleeves wrap around the body with slits cut high, well above the hip, on either side. The square necklines and the occasional button-down back made them look like aprons with a devilish twist. Bandeau tops and minis so short that they are effectively belts play on this severe thinness, and small embroidery, feathers and pearls are introduced in small portions, so as not to overwhelm the purity of the Pucci silhouette.

These are the latest developments in the brand’s austere and elegant interim period led by its design team. Camille Miceli, longtime LVMH designer at Dior and Louis Vuitton, took over as artistic director this month, but did not participate in the minimalist looks for spring. Maybe she will keep some? During a Zoom call with the Pucci team, they reported that sales were staggering – as evidenced by the Pucci craze hitting Millennials and Gen Z customers who seek the feeling that the brand’s party girl looks deliver. . And it’s not just the under 35s eyeing Pucci. Jennifer Lopez made a stop at the Capri flagship store during her summer vacation; a few days later, she wore a white Pucci headband, pants and jacket in Los Angeles. A step forward Miceli could make: launch more women like J.Lo in the brand’s visuals. The Pucci look, as elegant as it is, flatters a variety of body types and ages. Why not show it?

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