Jason Wu RTW Fall 2022 Collection – WWD
“I wanted something that looked like raw emotion, and I hope the clothes reflect that,” Jason Wu said ahead of his Saturday afternoon parade. Contrasting with his colorful spring collection, the designer wanted his fall designs to reflect his current mood. “I wanted something that was beautiful and poetic, but also a bit more understated,” he added.
Wu channeled those emotions directly into the collection (which was also dedicated in memory of her late cat, Jinxy). Her first two black looks – a tailored tweed bustier and sleek trousers with a peplum bow followed by a gorgeous quilted moire overcoat – set the tone perfectly.
As well as a rather understated palette, Wu’s silhouettes were influenced by ’50s artwork seen in advertisements and editorials in his vintage magazine collection. For example, tiered and pleated flocked tulle dresses, polished tweed and lace sportswear, and fit and flare taffeta dresses with fuzzy florals.
“The idea that things are done by hand in this fast-paced digital world is something that appeals to me — I don’t even own a computer. Guess I’m an old soul that way,” Wu explained of the collection’s new waterproof and distorted printing techniques.
The designer’s appreciation for craftsmanship and beauty shined through in his area of expertise: dressy clothes for special occasions. Beautifully contrasting full skirts at the waist, balloon hems, oversized bows, voluminous shoulder detailing and capped backs on sleek red carpet-worthy short dresses and loose black and white dresses, as well as bright pop colors. The increase in dressy and polished looks also stems from Wu’s business recovery.
“We haven’t had a lot of good news over the past two years, but last year was the best year for our business. You’re going to see dressed up looks because people are coming back largely dressed up – we couldn’t keep any dresses in stock,” he said.