Schiaparelli takes the fashion world on a surreal vacation
Haute couture house Schiaparelli digitally showcased its Spring / Summer 2022 ready-to-wear collection at Paris Fashion Week, with the ‘The Surrealist’s Holiday’ collection that sought to capture the varying essence of Schiaparelli, herself. .
Creative Director Daniel Roseberry directly credits the late Italian designer with his inspiration for the new collection, suggesting her intrigue by who she was in her private life. Roseberry aimed to capture the contrasting characteristics of Schiaparelli through the pieces, flaunting her dualities and declaring that: “She is irreducible, and because of that, inimitable”.
“Who was she when she stepped off the stage, when she was alone, away from the scintillating Parisian demi-monde,” Roseberry asked in the collection’s press release. “What does the Schiaparelli woman wear when she is not – to use a beloved drag term – serving?” “
Two perspectives are therefore proposed within the collection: “Elsa in town” and “Elsa on vacation”, each representing different states of understanding about who Schiaparelli was.
‘City’ explores twists and turns of 1970s French ready-to-wear, combined with Surreliast jewelry and exaggerated body parts that are iconic elements of the House. The selection reinvents Schiaparelli’s basics, such as a remade miniskirt and jacket set in white denim and remixed floral prints used for a sequined pantsuit.
On the other side of the spectrum, ‘Elsa on Vacation’ focuses on vacation clothing for the mood. As Roseberry suggested: “These are pieces for a literal escape, but also an escape from reality.” Multicolored knit onesies sit alongside ‘fancy swimwear’, while black silk draped dresses offer a more classic take on the concept.
The silhouettes are toned down compared to Schiaparelli’s typically over-the-top manner, showcasing wearable translations of the house’s haute couture offerings. However, the accessories remain on the more extravagant side. Oversized earrings and necklaces, snakeskin crossbody bags and restructured signature pieces were present to display more of the new updates.